Story by Eric Vohr and photos by Michaela Urban
If you’re looking for a great weekend trip to the Eastern Shore but want to avoid the crowds you often find in Oxford or St. Michaels, try heading north. Worton and Swan Creeks both provide great anchorages, wonderful restaurants, and a tranquility you won’t find at more popular destinations.
A Relaxed Pace
North of Baltimore and five miles south of the Sassafras River, Worton, a sleepy river surrounded by farmland, bald eagles, and beautiful beaches, is one of the Bay’s gems. The best anchorage is just inside the mouth of the river on the north side, providing good purchase and an expansive view of the Bay and Poole’s Island. You can also grab a ball or slip at Green Point Landing Marina.
On my first visit to Worton (back in 2004), I had the good fortune to meet Burt, Green Point’s former dock master. Burt’s marina typifies the relaxed pace you experience when you make that shift from the bustling urban western shore city of Baltimore to the sleepy laid back Eastern Shore. Even though I was a total stranger, Burt didn’t hesitate to lend me tools, give me tomatoes from his garden, and recommend a great breakfast spot. With the restaurant a couple of miles from the marina, he even let me borrow his car.
A little farther up the river, Worton Creek Marina also rents slips. One advantage of this marina is that you don’t need a dinghy to get to the Harbor House, one of my favorite restaurants on the Bay. This is not crab shack fare served in those little red and white paper containers with plastic forks and runny coleslaw. The Harbor House is a Philadelphia-inspired gourmet dining experience that really delivers. The chef is a culinary school graduate and the wine list is spectacular. I recommend booking in advance; this place gets full. Another advantage to booking early: the restaurant will name one of its dishes after you. Last time I was there, I dined on the “Vohr” Shrimp Scampi.
If you decide to anchor out, the dinghy ride in to Harbor House is wonderful, especially on a moonlit summer evening. The dinghy dock can be a bit hard to find, so don’t hesitate to ask some locals for directions.
I’ve had a lot of spectacular meals at the Harbor House. In spite of its popularity, I have almost always managed to get a table looking out over the creek. One of my favorite memories was the Fourth of July, 2008, when my guest and I had medium-rare filet mignon, a Chimney Rock Cabernet, and a clear view of the fireworks bursting over Chestertown. That was a night.
During the day you can enjoy one of Worton’s many sandy beaches. There’s a long stretch just off the anchorage that’s a great place to drop a blanket, read a book, and laze away a summer afternoon. A little farther in, there’s a large sand bar that’s a popular spot on a busy summer weekend. (Busy at Worton means you have to share the beach with one or two other boats.)
Beauty and Bar-Hopping
For those who are looking for a little more action, Swan Creek offers a nice blend of beauty and bar hopping. A secluded, peaceful haven, the creek is within walking distance of Rock Hall and two of my favorite waterfront party spots, the Harbor Shack and Waterman’s Crabhouse. Both of these joints offer up great live music and tasty food, so you can’t go wrong whichever one you choose. I usually just pick the place that has the best band.
Swan Creek has numerous marinas, and the anchorage is protected and not too crowded. Although I have to say, my top recommendation, if you don’t mind dropping a little cash, is a night in the Osprey Point Inn. I first stumbled on this historic country inn when I took my parents for their first sail. My folks are not much of the “sleep on the boat” type, so I booked them a room. This classic old style inn embraces the spirit and style of the Eastern Shore and serves some of the best cuisine in Rock Hall. The inn also provides a shuttle service that will take you anywhere you want to go, even to a grocery store to provision. They also have bikes, kayaks, a pool, and picnic areas with charcoal grills. A night or two off the boat is nice, especially if you have guests who are new to sailing. Who wouldn’t trade a hunk of foam and a slight diesel smell for a large firm mattress with crisp white sheets and a chocolate on the pillow.
During the day, Rock Hall is a great town for a walkabout. In spite of its popularity and proximity to Baltimore, it still has that old-time Eastern Shore feel. Of course, your trip is not complete without a stop at During’s Store on Main Street. This circa 1925 soda fountain serves to-die-for soda fountain treats, homemade baked goods, and ice cream.
If you happen to visit Rock Hall July 7, you’ll be lucky enough to witness a Chesapeake Bay tradition, the Kent County Watermen’s Day. This epic event celebrates the men and women of Rock Hall who make their living from the Bay. One of the hallmark contests of this weekend is the Work Boat Docking Contest. Any boat owner knows that one of the most stressful moments is docking, especially with a20-knot cross wind. Yet these pros make it look easy. Of course there are those who “miss the mark,” which only adds to the entertainment.
From Havre de Grace, MD, to Smith Island and Gloucester Point, VA, the Chesapeake Bay provides endless possibilities for adventure. For those sailors who haven’t tasted its northern wonders, I highly recommend Worton and Swan creeks. I can’t promise an encounter with the legendary Burt (he has since retired from his post at Green Point). However, I can promise an experience that will not disappoint.
