W
hen warm spring weather wraps its arms around the Chesapeake, no destination tugs at us more than the Wye River on the Eastern Shore. By that, I mean the entire river, not just any one special spot. With many miles of undeveloped shoreline and few cell phone towers, the Wye River enables almost every kind of boater on almost every kind of boat to unplug and unwind.
Home to the Wye Island National Resources Management Area and the Pickering Creek Audubon Center, the Wye River abounds in natural beauty and wildlife. Great blue herons, osprey, double-crested cormorants, and bald eagles frequent the river. Snakes, turtles, white perch, and blue crabs share the water with boaters and fishermen. Add to that a history of tobacco farming and fishing that includes Declaration of Independence signer William Paca, and a place well connected to both the natural present and the past emerges.
For those looking to anchor out for the weekend, the Wye has, it seems, countless anchorages. For a raft-up or rendezvous, consider Drum Point, which provides both calm shelter and a breeze and always has room for another boat to squeeze in. Pull dinghies or kayaks onto the beach at the point to go on shore. Wine berries in July and the rope swing on the beach remain perennial favorites for us. A walk along the shoreline may reveal one of the many hidden piles of large oyster shells eaten by others frequenting Wye Island long ago. Erosion has exposed some of these piles along the riverbank.
B
oaters also like to gather at Dividing Creek in the Wye East, which is so long and deep that it almost divides the island in two and effectively shuts off the breeze, especially in the summer heat. A landing on Dividing Creek serves as shore access and as a launching point for kayaks and canoes. Bald eagles nest nearby, and the calm waters make for peaceful paddling. Shaw Bay can also hold a crowd. In September, Them Eastport Oyster Boys rock the anchorage with a Saturday evening concert.
As much as the Wye invites meeting up with friends, it offers even more for those seeking solitude and seclusion. Several tiny coves big enough for only one or two boats beckon below Dividing Creek. Just across from the ampleness of Shaw Bay and Drum Point lie two smaller anchorages not often visited. So many nooks abound that you could anchor in a different spot every day for a month and not visit the same place twice. A favorite anchorage gives the opportunity for years of quiet observation of subtle changes in the shoreline. In our favorite cove, we’ve watched the shoals change shape, the beach disappear as grasses grew in, and a fallen tree slip further and further into the water.
Many pockets and coves invite exploration by a small vessel such as a kayak, canoe, or dinghy. From cornfields to large estates to undeveloped shoreline, the landscape delights. At the Wye Narrows, a low fixed bridge connects Wye Island to the Eastern Shore, necessitating exploration without a mast in order to circumnavigate the whole island.
While no towns offer shore access, the wildlife sanctuaries and the public boat ramp at Wye Landing do. Schnaitman’s Boat Rentals, not surprisingly, rents boats and also sells bait, crabs, and sometimes ice cream bars.
The Pickering Creek Audubon Center, which is free and open to the public year-round, welcomes visitors with boats. Friendly staff at the on-site visitor’s center can tell you where to tie up your dinghy or kayak. We found it tricky to locate the center from the water; its docks have a waterman’s shanty and signage for visitors to read on the dock. Peaceful, easy hiking trails cover more than 400 acres of shoreline and farmland.
As the sun starts to set, the Wye River provides broad views that cry out for the enjoyment of a cocktail. In good years, you can catch crabs right from your boat. Herons squawk day and night. The occasional waterman tends his trot line nearby. And in late June, the fireflies put on a show to rival any manmade fireworks display.
In our eyes, the Wye River embodies the essence of Chesapeake tranquility. Whether seeking a rendezvous with friends or quiet time for reflection, the Wye River’s strong connections to nature and the past and poor connections to cell networks offer sailors the opportunity to transcend the petty challenges of modern life. That’s why we keep coming back for more.
by Tracy Leonard
