Virginia’s Rappahannock River offers a “mini loop” suitable for almost any size vessel.
Boaters and long-distance cruisers often dream of doing The Great Loop—that 6000-mile waterway down the Mississippi, across the Gulf, up the East Coast, and back through the Great Lakes. But if you don’t have a year to devote or the right boat, Virginia’s Rappahannock River can offer you a “mini loop” cruise for any size vessel and any amount of time you can spend.
The 97-mile-long Rappahannock separates Virginia’s Northern Neck from the Middle Peninsula. The indigenous Algonquin Indians named the river, which means “river of quick-rising water.” Although the current can sometimes be a bit swift at the river’s mouth, it’s not nearly as formidable as its sister to the north, the Potomac. With great protection from northern winds, numerous small towns, enchanting anchorages, and delightful restaurants, the Rappahannock offers visitors a complete package within a 40-nautical mile round trip.
Deltaville
Start your mini loop in Deltaville, where the Rappahannock and Piankatank Rivers meet. Long billed as the “Boating Capital of the Southern Chesapeake,” Deltaville boasts probably more marinas and marine service companies per capita than any other Chesapeake town.
During the fall migration south, hordes of cruisers anchor in Fishing Bay or Jackson Creek along Deltaville’s southern boundary. From there it’s a good hike up the road to the market, West Marine, or Evolution Sailmakers, the Chesapeake’s largest independent sail loft.
Or, anchor in Jackson Creek after navigating the doglegged but well-marked channel to grab some live music at the Deltaville Tap and Raw Bar. (You may need to swim ashore as there currently is no dinghy dock available for diners.) Jackson Creek Marina, the former Deltaville Marina and Boatyard, offers full services to transients as well as seasonal slipholders. Across the way, the friendly folks at Fishing Bay Yacht Club will also be happy to offer cruisers a ride into town. You might even get a lift to the Deltaville Maritime Museum, one of the community’s most important cultural centers.
Just a couple of miles down the road from downtown Deltaville, but a good hour or two by boat around Stingray Point and up the Rappahannock, is Broad Creek. With more than a dozen marinas and a wealth of maritime services, Broad Creek has a plethora of slips and support—but it’s not for those who like to anchor out. It also has a shoaling, shallow channel entrance which makes timing the tides necessary for many. Just this past February, emergency funds were allocated for a major, four-month dredging project. It is, however, unlikely to be completed before the summer season kicks off.
The Rappahannock’s Southern Shore
After a day or two around Deltaville, head upriver to Topping, VA, with a destination stop at Merroir Restaurant. This is Rappahannock Oyster Company’s home and where its national (and international!) reputation first began. The term “merroir” essentially describes how the waters where oysters grow impacts how the oysters taste. The Rappahannock Oyster Company farms its own bivalves, shipping them all over the country and to their restaurants in Los Angeles, Washington, DC, Charleston, and Richmond. You can choose from several different types:
- Rochambeaus, harvested from the York River, are a mix of salty and sweet.
- Old Salts come from Chincoteague, VA, and are, as their name implies, salty.
- Rappahannocks are raised just down river at the mouth of the Rapp and are sweet due to the influx of fresh water.
You can visit the restaurant by using a limited number of slips available during the day or grabbing a spot at nearby Regent Point Marina, after navigating the entrance channel.
Your last stop going upriver on your mini loop cruise is Urbanna, home of the huge annual Urbanna Oyster Festival in November. But before and after, Urbanna is a charming small town with numerous shops and restaurants. Anchor inside its protective little harbor or tie up at the town dock or Urbbys, a newer, full-service marina complete with gift shop and many amenities. There are multiple restaurants to sample, especially the new Urban Oyster. One delightful stop is the Urbanna Museum, home of the famous John Mitchell map drawn in 1755. Call ahead and the museum will try to give you a docent-led tour.
Going with the flow downstream
Once you’ve had your fill of restaurants and oysters (but can you ever get enough?) cross over the Rapp and start moving back downstream, but not before you explore up the charming Corrotoman River, perhaps the Southern Bay’s most idyllic tributary. Well-protected, scenic, and serene describe it best.
After a few miles, the river divides into right and left forks, both of which can be explored for a day or two. Turn right, and anchor off a tiny sand spit to walk the dog and marvel at the numerous bald eagles nesting high in the pine trees. Or go left and drop the hook just before the Merry Point cable ferry. There you can enjoy watching the ferryman transport cars and their drivers back and forth, reminiscent of the river’s role during the colonial era as a bustling port for steamships. If you’re now ready for a little more nightlife, Yankee Point Marina is just minutes away. They offer transient slips, the Black Duck restaurant, a ship’s store, pool, and live music during the season.
The last stop on your Rappahannock mini loop cruise simply has to include Carter Creek, just a stone’s throw (or maybe two) east of the Corrotoman. Once you’ve traveled the well-marked entrance, you have a choice: Turn right into Yopp’s Creek and anchor among the trees and private, quiet homes. There’s plenty of water, so the holding is good in almost all kinds of weather.
You can continue up Carter Creek, aiming for the distinctive red roof of the Tides Inn Resort, one of the Bay’s oldest and grandest resorts complete with fine dining, a pool, a golf course, and marina. If you are ready for a little indulgence, take a slip. Spend an hour at the spa, paddle a kayak, or stroll down the new boardwalk along “Dead and Bones Cove.” (Its name remains a mystery.) But be prepared. A slip at the Tides can cost up to $5.50/ft with a $35 resort fee. If you want a night off the boat, rooms can approach $500 a night.
Carter Creek is also home to Custom Yacht Services, a small boatyard providing superior workmanship, repair services, and winter storage. Just this past year, nearby Rappahannock Yachts sold its boatyard and marina business, so dockage options on the creek are limited. But no worries: anchor out and dinghy in.
It’s finally time to return, traveling under the Norris Bridge and back down the Rappahannock River to Deltaville, less than three hours away. Your mini loop only covered 20 miles of the river, which begins in the Blue Ridge Mountains, passes through several towns, and eventually empties into the Chesapeake.
Perhaps a future exploration could include a canoe trip down the Rappahannock out of Fredericksburg. Check out Virginia Outdoor Center. The eagles will still be soaring, but there, the river runs shallow and fresh.
by Karen Soule
About the Author: Karen Soule sails her Outbound 46 Soulemate with her husband, David, out of Fishing Bay Yacht Club in Deltaville, VA. She cruises between the Caribbean and New England, but likes the Chesapeake Bay best.
